February 12, 2017 |
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Intricate calligraphy dating back to the Qutb Shahi era and contemporary styles all come together in a perfect harmony in the mosques dotting the city. Photo: Surya Sridhar
While Makkah Masjid ranks as one the largest and most eminent of buildings of its class in India, there are many others which are no less magnificent and pleasing to look at. Wonder which is the first mosque of Hyderabad? No prizes for guessing. But it is certainly not Makkah Masjid as is generally believed. It was the Safa Masjid at Golconda, then known as Mohammednagar, which was the first mosque to come up in this region. Golconda, which is impressive even in ruins, holds many an imposing structure. The Safa Masjid is one of them. Built in 1518 AD in Bahmani style by Sultan Quli, it has a large arched hall divided into four aisles.
The date of construction is clearly inscribed in Arabic making it the oldest mosque.
Bygone era
Noted architect Khalid Mohiuddin lifted the veil of secrecy on many a little known thing associated with mosques of Hyderabad. In a scholarly talk recently on “Art and Architecture of historical mosques in Hyderabad’, he transported the audience to a bygone era.
The Jamia Masjid Shujaiya is the first to come up after the Qutb Shahis moved to Hyderabad. This mosque was constructed in 1597 much before Makkah Masjid was built. What is striking about the mosque situated bang opposite Charminar is the minarets. They are in sharp contrast to the Qutb Shahi style of minars which rise into the sky.
“The minarets of this masjid are deliberately kept short so as not to mar the beauty of the graceful Charminar,” explains Mohiuddin.
The ‘mihrab’ (semicircular niche) in the mosque has Quranic verses inscribed on black basalt in Thulth style by the famous calligrapher, Jalaluddin Muhammed Hussain al Fakkhar of Shiraz. Interestingly, this mosque is now hidden behind modern structures and one has to literally search for it. Another mosque which is also older than Makkah Masjid is the Begum Mosque right opposite it. Calligraphic panels and decorative elements remain intact inside although the exterior has undergone change.
No tall minarets
With arched facades carved out of a single piece of granite, Makkah Masjid is known for its elegant architecture and massiveness. Surprisingly, it is also devoid of tall minarets. The Mughal emperor, Aurangazeb, who completed the construction of Makkah Masjid commenced by Mohammed Quli Qutb Shah, the fifth Qutb Shahi ruler, 77 years earlier, wanted the height of the minarets to be kept low. He wanted things to be done on a smaller scale, it is said.
Nearly 90 per cent of the mosques in Hyderabad were built by the Qutb Shahi rulers, while the Asaf Jahis contributed just 10 per cent. The well-known mosques built by the Nizams are the Chowk ki Masjid (1817), Afzalgunj ki Masjid (1866) and the Shahi Masjid in Public Gardens (1924).
A unique feature of Asaf Jahi mosques, according to Mohiuddin, was that the Nizams ensured that there was a regular source of income for the maintenance of the mosques. For this, they built shops all around.
Engineering feat
If you want to see a modern mosque just drop in at KBR Park. The Chiran Palace mosque here built by Prince Mukkarram Jah Bahadur is an engineering feat. One look and you know it is an edifice built with modern technology. The roof doesn’t appear to rest on the side walls. There are no pillars or columns to support it either. Only a careful look will show the whole weight of the roof is borne by arches in front and back. The mosque of course blends harmoniously with the greenery around. One feels close to nature while praying here.
J.S.Ifthekhar,
Hyderabad based journalist.
Article published in Telangana Today
Dated February 12,2017
