A walk through Hyderabad ‘gallis’ with Anand Raj Varma’s new book

How familiar are you with your city? Do you know where Koka-ki-Tatti is? Where is Dekhchi Galli located or what is meant by Karmanghat? No prizes for guessing. The generation next may be familiar with the upscale areas in Hyderabad but they draw a blank when asked about the localities south of Musi.

Now you can brag about your knowledge of Hyderabad, particularly the ‘ purana shahr ’. Just flip through the book Hyderabad - Mohalle, Gali, Kooche and get a thorough hold of information on the nawabi city.

Few people know Hyderabad like the back of their hand. Anand Raj Verma is one of them. His new book tells all about the names of the localities in the old city, their history and whom they are named after. After success of his Hindi book by the same name, Anand Raj has come up with its Urdu version, packing it with the history of some more localities.

The 310 pages book gives a detailed account of 65 localities, 40 dargahs, 10 temples, 8 mosques and 12 historical sites. Anand Raj Verma has done a painstaking research by visiting each area, talking with the people and collecting the little known facts.

A former principal of the Anwarul Uloom College, Anand Raj is a symbol of the famed Ganga-Jamuni tehzeeb of Hyderabad. He has not just given a detailed account of various localities but classified them into 14 categories. For instance areas with the suffix ‘kunta’ — Errakunta, Nawabsab Kunta, Nallakunta are all listed together. So are areas bearing animal names such as Murghi Chowk, Hiran Tekri, Oontwadi, Mitti-ka-Sher.

The classification of areas by communities makes for interesting read. For instance Irani Galli, Sikh Chowni, Lodhawadi, Brahmanwadi. Readers will be surprised to find some ‘ khaate peete’ mohalle like Doodh Bowli, Shakargunj, Gowlipura, Misrigunj. Some areas are categorised by different professions like Kumarwadi, Sunar Galli, Kooche Nohagran (elegy reciters), Kooche Hakiman (Hakeem basti). There also quite a few areas bearing fruit names like Jambagh, Seetaphalmandi, Sapota basti. If you are looking for colourful localities there are quite a few — Hari Bowli, Lal Darwaza, Peeli Dargah.

Funny names apart, Anand Raj Verma has included many interesting anecdotes thereby enhancing the readability of his book. “For this I have depended on oral history,” he says.


The book is scheduled to be released on October 31 at Salar Jung Museum.

J.S.Ifthekhar,

Hyderabad based journalist.

Article published in The Hindu

Dated October 30,2015

Read More

Hyderabad’s hottest, traditional confectionary is relished by people of all faiths in this season

Yes, the flavour of the season is back. It’s time to indulge in the sweet-baked treat. Dum-ke-Roat, the traditional Hyderabadi cookie, has swamped the market with the advent of Muharram, the first month of Islamic calendar. It is the fastest moving item during the month and occupies the pride of place in bakeries across the city. Like Haleem, which has come to be associated with Ramzan, the month of fasting, Dum-ke-Roat is the hottest confectionary during Muharram, the month of mourning for the Shias.

Religious significance apart, people of all faiths eagerly wait to relish this seasonal delicacy. But this time round, Roat lovers have to shell down slightly more to enjoy the crusty fare.

Major bakeries have priced it at Rs. 440 per kg, forty rupees more than the previous year. “We are left with no option but to raise the price in view of rise in the prices of ghee and dry fruits,” says Syed Irfan of Subhan Bakery at Nampally. However the rush at this popular bakery shows that people do not mind the hike as long as the quality is assured. “I wait the whole year to taste Roat and I don’t mind paying more,” says Arshad Ayub, a software techie.

Many bakeries witness a dip in the sale of other products during Muharram as Roat dominates the scene. The demand peaks on the 10th of Muharram, which marks the ‘Youm-e-Ashoora’. On this day the traditional ‘'Bibi-ka-Alam’ procession is taken out on a caparisoned elephant from Bibi-ka-Alawa in Dabeerpura to Chaderghat. The seventh Nizam, Mir Osman Ali Khan, is believed to have offered Roat to the ‘Nala-e-Mubarak’ Alam near Charminar for the safety and well-being of his grandson, Mukarram Jah Bahadur. This practice continues till date and people who take a vow for the safety of their wards break the Roat on the Alam and distribute it to others. A wide range of items go into the making of Roat. The main ingredients are: wheat flour, sooji (semolina), vegetable oils, sugar, honey, clarified butter, salt, and cardamom and milk products.

For added flavour it is decked with dry fruits such as almonds, cashew nuts, pista and saffron. But getting all these in the right proportion is the most important aspect. The duration of baking is what lends that brownish look while making it crunchy from outside and soft within. What’s more, Roat is made of pure ghee and is 100 percent vegetarian.

So why not tickle the taste buds with it?



Religious significance apart, people of all faiths eagerly wait to relish this seasonal delicacy

J.S.Ifthekhar,

Hyderabad based journalist.

Article published in The Hindu

Dated October 21,2015

Read More

‘Zinda Dilan-e-Hyderabad’ brought out the best of Hyderabadi humour to the fore.

Laughter, they say, is the best medicine. Hyderabadis know it best. Once in a while they let their hair down and laugh their hearts out. The last weekend saw endless bouts of humour and mirth as the much looked forward to annual programme of the ‘Zinda Dilan-e-Hyderabad’ got underway.

The ‘Adabi Ijlas’ (essay recital session) and the ‘mizahia mushaira’ (humorous concert) left everyone in splits. There was none in the audience who did not giggle, chuckle or break into laughter uncontrollably. Sadly the king of humour, Mujtaba Hussain, was not there to liven up the evenings. Ill health did not permit him to dish out his special brand of humour. Nevertheless one has to salute the ‘zinda dil’ spirit of Hyderabadis who turned up in good numbers.

Mushairas occupy a special place in the cultural calendar of Hyderabad. Not a day passes without a concert being held somewhere or other. Humorous mushairas are usually a big draw since there is plenty to laugh about. But unfortunately the lyrical excellence of the poets leave a lot to be desired. Poet after poet tends to indulge in the same old ‘biwi and saas’ bashing to create mirth. Connoisseurs of good shayeri couldn’t help but squirm in their seats. Even Deputy Chief Minister, Mohammed Mehmood Ali, pointed out to this wife-mother-in-law fixation among poets.

But some poets chose to differ and tickled the funny bone even while capturing the present situation in the country and the shrinking space for tolerance. Without naming the Prime Minister, Narender Modi, many lampooned his style of functioning. Sardar Asar captured the mood of the nation thus: Bail ki batyen karo, na gaye ki batyen karo, Jaante hai hum tum accha banalete ho, Chai wale ho chai ki batyen karo.


Another promising poet, Waheed Pasha Quadri, too dwelled on the attempts to polarise communities on religious lines. He drew lot of applause for these verses: Amn ke dushmanon se a bolo, Warna lene ke dene padenge, Nafraton ke na tum shool banto Warna lene ke dene padenge . But it was the elderly poet, Mustafa Ali Baig, who walked away with laurels, despite difficulty in walking. His typical Anglo-Urdu poetry was a big hit. Wo bhi karne lege wafa oh no, Lag gaee meri bad-dua oh no, Shopping inki luggage mere sar, Pyar karne ki hai saza oh no . The humorous essay recital session was much better both for its literary standard and originality of style. Ilyas Siddiqui of Malegaon regaled the audience with his attempt to beg, borrow and buy the presidential address for a programme. Syed Imtiazuddin sent everyone into peals of laughter with a dig on the Hyderabadi brand of humour while Dr. Mumtaz Mehdi’s write up brought smiles when he played on the word ‘sumjhana’ in varied contexts. Zinda Dilan-e-Hyderabad’s humorous journey in the past half a century has been quite eventful. As Mujtaba Husain once remarked, “It is better for one to turn back and look. Whether one sees something or not, this exercise does a lot of good to the neck”.

J.S.Ifthekhar,

Hyderabad based journalist.

Article published in The Hindu

Dated October 16,2015

Read More

keep moving Mujtaba Hasan Askari shows a special desk that facilitates frequent movement 

Working long hours at your workstation can spell trouble. Fitness activist Mujtaba Hasan Askari shows an interesting way to deal with it

His head begins to throb as he stares at the files piled up on his desk. The pain slowly spreads to his arms, shoulder and back. Rajesh knows he is experiencing stress and having problem coping with the pressures of daily work. Rajesh is not the only victim of sedentary lifestyle. There are any number of persons falling prey to the risks of long hours culture. More and more evidence is surfacing about the high risk run by those still at their desks into the evening. Is there a way out? “Yes. Simple, natural and inexpensive interventions can do a lot,” says Mujtaba Hasan Askari who has been successful in reducing medication and getting control over diabetes, hypertension and cholesterol.Modern day lifestyle itself is fraught with lot of health issues. And for office-goers caught in the 9 to 5 work schedule the risks are even greater. High travel time, working indoors in artificial lights and for extended hours further heighten the risk. And if the inadequate sleep and consumption of high fat and high sugar processed food is taken into account you have perfect recipe for disaster. Short bouts of sitting allows the body to relax and rejuvenate. But remaining seated for longer duration can spell trouble. The ideal thing is to move and sit intermittently. Just walk down to your colleagues instead of communicating with them through SMS or intercom.

Latest research shows that it is possible to lower the blood sugar by 2 to 5 per cent if one sits for less than three hours a day. For many cutting down the working hours may be difficult but they can reduce the amount of time spent sitting down. A food and health activist, Mujtaba has succeeded in getting a handle over his health problems following simple techniques. He has cultivated the habit of working in standing position. And for this he has made a small wooden platform over his table where he keeps the laptop and works standing. He also keeps dumbbells ready at hand for a quick workout. “The moment you stand all cellular activity starts and within minutes your body burns glucose and triglycerides,” remarks Mujataba who also runs the Helping Hand Foundation. Intense physical activity is the next best thing to do. Either hit the gym and concentrate on strengthening core muscles around pelvis and abdomen.

If there is a lawn in the office try to walk barefoot as this helps absorb negative ions from the earth. “It is the best source of anti oxidants for the body,” says Mujataba. Other things he suggests are getting adequate exposure to sun for the Vitamin D. One can create a safe D spot in the office which allows enough sun and daylight to stream in. Vitamin D is essential to improve bone health and control blood sugar.

Making conscious and wise food choices is equally important. Adding small portions of raw food like nuts, seeds, vegetable juices and green tea can be of immense benefit. Sound sleep and reduced intake of medication will make a further difference. The bottom line is change your lifestyle and engage with nature the way your ancestors did.

J.S.Ifthekhar,

Hyderabad based journalist.

Article published in The Hindu

Dated October 9,2015

Read More